The Magic of Montmarte: One of my favorite things to do in Paris has always been to walk up to the Sacré-Cœur and wander through the streets until I arrive at Place du Tertre, known as “the artists’ square”. Ever since I was a child, this place has fascinated me. I could spend hours just observing the artists and the many tourists passing by, soaking in the atmosphere and wishing I were one of those people that seemed to perform magic so effortlessly with their pens and brushes.
Discover the Artistic Heart of Paris
This time was no different. It was my first time visiting Paris in winter, the temperatures were icy and the square was less busy. But the magic of Montmartre was still there.
Did you know that there’s a 10 year waiting list for new artists to get a space here? Talented artists hoping to get a spot at this historic location must apply through the town hall of the 18th Arrondissement. Each artist is assigned a tiny, clearly defined spot where they can set up their easel, and these spaces are limited and highly popular.
Let’s have a look at the fascinating past and present of Montmarte:
The Bohemian Neighborhood
Montmartre is a fun mix of history, art, and bohemian charm. Its story is like a French fairy tale with a sprinkle of rebellion: back in the day, it was the place for outcasts, where artists would gather in smoky cafés, paint masterpieces, and debate life over a glass of wine or two. Today, the charming cobblestone streets attract visitors from near and far, making it one of the top tourist attractions of Paris. This also means: large crowds, mass souvenir shops and overpriced food and drinks. Personally, I can still taste the magic and nostalgia among all this hustle, but it certainly helps to come outside of the high season or early in the morning.
On this cold January day in Paris, I was approaching the area of Montmarte by foot. Even before reaching the quirky neighborhood, you can tell you’re heading in the right direction: the basilica of Sacré Coeur is located in one of the highest point of Paris and is towering far above the surrounding buildings.
But before tackling the way up, I decided to do a lunch stop at Urban Greener, a cosy little vegan restaurant that’s conveniently located just a few streets away. I was lucky and got the last free table without a reservation. On that day, they were serving a brunch formula and the café was still decorated in Harry-Potter-style from a recent event. Life could be worse! The brunch turned out to be a tasty mix of a soup and a bowl full of flavors topped with fresh micro greens, as well as scones with delicious whipped cream and a banana and apple oatmeal. If you wanna get to know more delicious vegan restaurants in Paris, check out our article here.
After a more than satisfying meal, it was time to take the ascent to the forecourt of Sacré Cœur. To go up, you can either choose to walk up the stairs or take the funicular (for 1.90€, the same cost as a single-way metro ticket) – whatever your choice, once on top, you will be rewarded with a stunning view over the Parisian roofs! If you’re like me, with the panorama of Paris on one side, and the more-than-impressive building of Sacré Coeur on your other side, you will probably have trouble deciding where to turn first. Take your time to enjoy it and see if you can identify a few familiar landmarks among the sea of buildings that lie in front of you.
One thing to expect: it will be crowded. Montmartre is one of the top touristic spots in Paris, so expect large crowds of people and plenty of street vendors. For some reason though, the busyness of the place has never really bothered me. One of my favorite things to do is just sit with my camera and observe people. Especially the look of awe on the faces of those arriving at the platform and encounter the view of the Paris skyline for the very first time.
And then there are those, who, despite the views, mostly have eyes for each other… 😉
After you’ve spent your fair share of time strolling around the esplanade (and maybe even having a look inside of the basilica: it’s free!), it’s time to visit the artists of Montmartre that reside just a few minutes away. Here’s an option on how to get there:
- Descend Rue du Chevalier de la Barre: Head southeast down Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, a charming street lined with (touristic) shops and cafés.
- Turn Right onto Rue Norvins: At the bottom of Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, turn right onto Rue Norvins. This street features various shops and galleries.
- Continue onto Place du Tertre: Follow Rue Norvins until you reach Place du Tertre. This lively square is a hub for artists, with many setting up easels to showcase their work. Take your time to explore the artwork and soak in the atmosphere. Maybe you even recognize the one or other face from the pictures above 😉
- Optional Detour to Dali Paris: If you’re a fan of Salvador Dalí, consider making a slight detour to Dali Paris, a museum dedicated to the surrealist artist. It’s located at 11, Rue Poulbot, just a short walk from Place du Tertre.
Do you have a favorite spot in Paris? Tell us in the comments below.
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