Uncover São Miguel: The Atlantic’s Stunning Green Haven

Sometimes in life, you just have to get away to a tiny island in the Atlantic Ocean and surround yourself with cows. For us, this opportunity came in March 2024 when we spent a week in São Miguel. As part of the Azorean archipelago, which consists of nine islands, São Miguel is often the first stop and serves as a starting point for exploring the other destinations. While we didn’t have enough time to visit more than one place, “the green island” amazed us with its charm and unspoiled nature (and lots of cows!). We hope to return soon for some more island hopping.

Intro

Before arriving on São Miguel, we made the best out of the layover and spent a day in Porto. You can read about it here (coming soon).

It was almost midnight when we arrived in Ponta Delgada, the capital of São Miguel. Writing this, I realize that this is my favorite way to approach a new destination: late at night, when it’s dark and – in the case of this small city – quiet and sleepy. You form a vague first impression in your mind, and when you wake up the next morning, the bubbling excitement of discovering a new place can be felt for the second time! A whole new, bright landscape unfolds before you, bringing everything to life and movement. This feeling resonates whether you’re in a city or surrounded by nature.

“The green island” is undeniably a fitting term for Sao Miguel. As soon as you leave the city, it is green on green on green, in all the different shades that you can imagine. And thanks to the island’s small size, you can enjoy gorgeous ocean views from almost anywhere – there’s no need to visit one of the official miradouros;-)

Here are our highlights of the trip:

Locations

Ponta Delgada

As the capital city of São Miguel, Ponta Delgada is the island’s main urban center and commercial hub. It is only a short distance away from the airport, which makes it a convenient starting and end point for your trip. Ponta Delgada is easy to explore in one day. The most fun way of discovering a new place for us is to walk around, and Ponta Delgada is perfect for doing just that. We started our day with a stroll along the harbor, then proceeded into the center of the city, passing landmarks such as Portas da Cidade (City Gates), São Sebastião Church and the Forte de São Brás.

For lunchtime, we sat down at the terrace of the lovely Jardim Natural Food & Coffee located in a botanical garden, surrounded by gorgeous old, tall trees, different species of birds and the occasional curious cat. It had the typical easy, relaxed, close-to-nature Azorean vibe that should accompany us through the whole week.

Sete Cidades

Sete Cidades is among the most famous places in São Miguel. It is known for its picturesque twin lakes, that apparently each have a different colour of green and blue. While we can’t confirm this from our experience, they were a stunning sight even in one single colour 😉 You can visit the area just to walk around and go to some of the designed viewpoints – or you can walk ALL AROUND the lakes and see them from every angle. That’s what we did. The loop around takes 20km, but is a relatively easy path with slight ups and downs for the most part of the road. You will have views on the lakes on one side and on the ocean from the other side. Sete Cidades is very prone to weather changes on the island and can be foggy for a great part of the time. That’s why we recommend to head there as soon as the sky is clear.

Furnas

Furnas is probably one of the most interesting and mysterious places we have been to. While the rest of the island tells you “slow down, easy-going!”, this is the bubbling, steaming, constantly active part of the island. And let’s be clear, it’s nature here that is active, thanks to the geothermal activity in this area. Apart from that, Furnas is surprisingly casual, seemingly indifferent to the fact that it is one of the most unique places in the world. Don’t get us wrong, you will find more hotels and restaurants here than anywhere else on the island and the town attracts many tourists daily – but if anywhere else in the world you would have a place nestled inside the crater of a dormant volcano, with thermal pools and mineral springs, they would let you know about it with souvenir shops and big billboard signs. Fortunately, you will find none of this in Furnas.

There are many things to do here: we spent our day wandering through the village, before relaxing in the Poça da Dona Beija thermal pools. On a different day, we came back to discover Terra Nostra Park with its gorgeous botanical garden and the biggest thermal pool in the Azores.

Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões

This place is a true jewel! Think jungle feels with a stunning high waterfall and a lush green forest around, while it all remains super accessible. This means, you don’t have to walk far to see the main waterfall, but it is actually just across the street from the parking lot. After you have wandered around for a bit (most of the ways that seem to go deeper into the forest are private or only accessible for group tours), it is time to explore the other side. For this, cross the street and follow the route down, where you will pass a small café and reach more walking paths. We followed the paths until the end, where stairs are leading down a forest way. According to google maps, there was an other waterfall at the end of it, but after +/- 20min walking, the path turned muddier and more and more inaccessible, so we decided to turn around. However, even without the hiking option, you can spend a few hours at the park, just by walking around, taking pictures and sitting down to enjoy the peaceful scenery.

Farol do Arnel

Farol do Arnel is located in a tiny fisherman village. It was the first lighthouse built not only on São Miguel, but in all of the Azores. Although there is a road going down, it is very steep and winding, so we preferred to leave our car at the parking on top and walk down (and up again) on foot. On the way, you will have beautiful views over the cliffs and the shoreline. There are no cafés or shops in the village down, so in case it’s hot make sure to take some water with you to attack the ascent.

Ponta do Sossego

We know that we said earlier that it is not really needed to stop at designed miradourous as the whole island is a viewpoint, but Ponta do Sossego is actually worth driving the extra mile for. The area not only offers breathtaking views over the ocean, but turned out to also be a well maintained park. When we visited in March, gorgeous pink flowers were blooming all around the place, forming a catchy contrast to the blue colour of the sea. It is a peaceful place inviting you to sit down for a picnic and enjoying the lovely scenery.

Gorreana Tea Plantation

Chá Gorreana is the oldest, and nowadays the only, tea plantation in Europe. You can visit the factory for free and even get a free guided tour, as well as trying as much of their green and black tea as you like! There is also a small café that serves vegan options (burger and pasta). After walking through the factory, we decided to explore the walking paths that run through the plantations.

Traveling through São Miguel

São Miguel in a nutshell

São Miguel is part of the Azores Archipelago, which belongs to Portugal. Also known as the “Green Island,” São Miguel is famous for its unspoiled nature, dramatic coastlines, relaxing thermal pools, and tea plantations, offering countless opportunities for outdoor adventures.

  • Capital City: Ponta Delgada
  • Official Language(s): Portuguese
  • Currency: Euro (€)
  • Visa Requirements: Visa-free for Schengen Area countries; other nationalities should check specific requirements.
  • Population: Approximately 137,000
  • Best Time to Visit: Late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) for mild weather and fewer tourists.

Getting around

The easiest and most convenient way to explore São Miguel is by car. We booked our car through Ilha Verde.

Accommodations

  • We spend most of our time in the lovely Tuesdays Happy Place, a wonderful Airbnb with ocean view.
  • If you prefer staying in Ponta Delgada, we recommend Atlantic Home Azores. The check-in is automatic with a code and they have a relatively late check-out (11.30am), so it’s especially convenient for your arrival and/or departure day.

Vegan food

The Azores are traditionally known for their meat-heavy dishes and reliance on fresh fish. However, São Miguel offers not only a selection of plant-based restaurants but also a wide variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and beans. If you want to explore more about vegan-friendly dining options, check out our free e-book (link at the bottom of this page), where you’ll find links and locations to plant-based restaurants, as well as sustainable tips for enjoying your time on the island.

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10 thoughts on “Uncover São Miguel: The Atlantic’s Stunning Green Haven

  1. This post has me absolutely dreaming of São Miguel! Your photos and descriptions really capture the island’s beauty—I’m especially intrigued by the lush landscapes and hidden gems you’ve highlighted. It sounds like the perfect mix of adventure and tranquility, and now it’s officially on my travel list. Thank you for such an inspiring read!

  2. Hello! You are lucky visiting so faraway destination. The Azores islands look like a pure heaven. Thanks for sharing!

    1. Thank you! Yes, it definitely has similarities with Madeira. We couldn’t decide which island we liked better haha.

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