The last part of our road trip brought us all the way up into the mountains of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. Here we visited enchanting villages, Europe’s largest canyon and an unforgettable plant-based mountain resort.
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About the region
The Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (PACA) region in southeastern France is well known for its breathtaking landscapes, from the famous Gorges du Verdon, often called the ‘Grand Canyon of Europe,’ to vast lavender fields, historic vineyards, and picturesque medieval villages.
Inland from the coast, Provence reveals its rural charm. The landscape is a patchwork of lavender fields, vineyards, olive groves, and rolling hills. You’ll also find a rich cultural heritage, with charming Provençal villages and traditional landscapes in typical Mediterranean countryside style.
The Gorges du Verdon, with its dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters, is one of the most striking natural wonders in the region.
The mountains of the PACA region are defined by the Alps to the north and the Pre-Alps that lie in the central and southern parts of the region. The Alpes-Maritimes department, which borders the Mediterranean, is home to dramatic mountain landscapes that rise quickly from the coast, with peaks that reach over 3,000 meters, for example Mont Pelat. In the Var department, where Bargemon is located, the landscape is characterized by rugged hills, deep valleys, and limestone plateaus that form part of the Massif des Maures.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit the region is during the late spring (May to June) and early fall (September to October). These periods offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds compared to the peak summer months. The famous lavender fields usually bloom from late May to early August. In late spring, colourful flowers are in full bloom, while early fall stands out with its golden vineyards and harvests of grapes and olives. Both seasons also offer comfortable temperatures for outdoor activities like hiking, sightseeing, and exploring the picturesque villages.
Accommodation
Vegan Bed&Breakfast
For the last days of our trip, a very special accommodation was waiting for us: we decided to spent some nights at Abriecosy, a 100% vegan and organic Bed&Breakfast. Abriecosy is tucked away in the woods and mountains, the closest village (Bargemon) is 3km away.
The owners are serving a vegan breakfast everyday for their guests, including homemade bread and spreads, pancakes, plant-based milk and fruits. You can also order dinner (30€), which consists of a starter, main and dessert and will be based on the daily, creative inspiration of the owners. Click here to read more about our stay, the delicious food we had and the philosophy behind Abriecosy.
Other options
If Abriecosy doesn’t seem like the right choice for you, you’ll surely find a good place trough Airbnb or booking.com:
Locations
Bargemon
Bargemon is a commune in the Var department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. To be honest, it was our stay at Abriecosy that put this small medieval village (population: less than 1500!) on the map for us. And we didn’t regret the visit. Wandering through Bargemon’s narrow cobblestone streets, we discovered picturesque squares, old fountains, and and majestic trees that seemed to tell stories of their own. And since its perched on a hill, the village also offers stunning views.
Hike to Table d’Orientation
During our stay, we also did a hike to Table d’Orientation du Col du Bel Homme. On sunny days, it offers a gorgeous 360° panoramic view.
From Bargemon, the hike takes about 1,5 hours one way. Alternatively, you can also start at a close-by parking place (red circle, follow Route de Brovès in the direction of “Atterissage FFVL Bargemon”).
Once parked, follow the path in the direction of the red arrow. You’ll encounter a gate at the start of the hike, which you’ll need to open (and close again afterward ;-)). Don’t be alarmed by the military sign – it simple means that you are not allowed to wander off the paths. As long as you stick to the trail, everything will be fine.
The sign reading “Military Area – Do Not Enter” is posted right next to the gate. To be honest, it was a bit confusing and made us feel slightly uneasy during the hike up. However, the owner of our local Bed & Breakfast (along with numerous online comments) later reassured us that the restriction applies only to the surrounding area, not the hike itself. The path gradually ascends for about 1.2 kilometers until you reach the viewpoint. On clear, cloudless days, it’s said that you can even see Corsica from here!
Gorges du Verdon
The river canyon Gorges du Verdon is probably the most famous place in the area. This natural wonder was carved by the Verdon River over thousands of years and stretches approximately 25 kilometers, with limestone cliffs soaring up to 700 meters. You can discover it by kayaking along the river, renting a boat, hiking one of the scenic trails, or simply taking in the view from a panoramic viewpoint.
Hiking and Trekking
There are numerous hiking trails around the Gorges du Verdon that offer beautiful views of the canyon, river, and surrounding landscape. The Sentier Blanc-Martel is one of the most popular trails. This 15-kilometer route takes you through the heart of the gorge, along the river, and through tunnels carved into the rock. But even if you prefer shorter hikes, there are plenty of scenic routes around the canyon and nearby mountains, suitable for all levels.
We can recommend this hike. The nearly 10-kilometer loop leads you through forested areas, past a chapel, and alongside the stunning gorge. We even encountered some curious goats along the way.
Canoeing and Kayaking
If you’re more of a water enthusiast, kayaing or canoeing along the Verdon River is one of the best ways to experience the stunning beauty of the gorges. The turquoise waters and impressive limestone cliffs provide a dramatic backdrop as you paddle through the canyon. There are various routes, including calmer sections for beginners and more challenging parts for experienced kayakers.
If you prefer a chiller experience, boat tours are also available. These tours offer a scenic and leisurely way to explore the Gorges du Verdon, allowing you to sit back and enjoy the spectacular views of the canyon from the water.
You can rent a boat for example with La Perle du Verdon or Verdon Electronautic, or a boat or kayak with Location Nautic.
Swimming in the Verdon River
There are several spots around the Gorges du Verdon where you can swim in the river. Popular swimming areas include the Lac de Sainte-Croix, a large reservoir at the base of the gorge, where you can enjoy a refreshing dip while surrounded by stunning scenery.
Villages of the Verdon
The region surrounding the Gorges du Verdon is home to several charming and picturesque villages. The medieval village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, located near the entrance of the gorge, is one of the most famous. Known for its pottery and stunning location between two rocky cliffs, it offers beautiful views and a rich cultural heritage. Other nearby villages, such as Quinson and Castellane, are also worth a visit for their local history and scenic beauty.
Draguignan
Draguignan is a larger commune in the Var department with a population of about 40.000 people. You can spend an afternoon here strolling around to explore the medieval architecture and art.
Vegan restaurants
- Bio d’Eden: Restaurant serving meat, but with many vegan choices.
- Kanin: Asian restaurant with clearly marked vegetarian options that can be made vegan (for example Pad Thai).
Other locations
Ampus:
- A small, quiet village surrounded by lush hills and forests, located halfway between Bargemon and the Verdon region.
- Ideal for those seeking tranquility.
Montferrat:
- Nestled in the hills, this peaceful village is known for its proximity to the Artuby River and stunning countryside.
- A great spot for nature lovers who want a quiet base with quick access to hiking trails and outdoor activities.
Comps-sur-Artuby:
- Located near the Artuby River, this village is an excellent midpoint for exploring both the Gorges du Verdon and Bargemon.
- It is also a gateway to the Verdon Gorge’s Sentier Blanc-Martel trail and other adventurous activities.
Châteauvieux
- A tiny hamlet surrounded by hills and forests, ideal for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience.
- Perfect for nature walks and starry nights far from city lights.
Trigan
- Located in the Val d’Artuby, Trigan is a peaceful spot surrounded by dramatic landscapes.
- A good base for cycling and hiking through the valley and towards the Verdon Gorge.
Conclusion
This trip was definitely a special one for us. For the first time, we chose our destination based on the accommodation rather than the other way around. Our stay at Abriecosy gave us the chance to discover the small yet charming town of Bargemon, which also served as a perfect base for exploring the stunning Gorges du Verdon. Although our visit was short, we’re already looking forward to coming back and discover more of the gems that this beautiful region has to offer.
Further Reading
Blog Articles
- Exploring the Camargue through a vegan perspective
- Calanques Coast
- A vegan getaway