The Camargue is a region in France that is famous for its unique ecosystems, such as extensive wetlands that host a remarkable variety of wildlife. This enchanting area is home to many bird species, including flamingos, the beloved Camargue horses and elegant bulls. In this article, we will explore the Camargue through a vegan lens, highlighting various locations and experiences that respect both animals and the environment.
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About the Camargue
The Camargue is a region in southern France, where the Rhône River meets the Mediterranean Sea. It is well known for its expansive salt marshes and wetlands, as well as the iconic Camargue horses, pink flamingos and black bulls. This unique natural environment makes the Camargue a paradise for birdwatchers, photographers, and nature enthusiasts.
What makes it special
For us, the Camargue offers an exciting mix of nature, culture, and wildlife, in a landscape unlike any other. Life here has its own gentle pace and we felt like everything moved a bit slower compared to the more “trendy” destinations in France. Instead of rushing from one tourist hotspot to the next, the Camargue invites you to slow down – you sit on a bench and observe that bird or watch the sun set over the wetlands while it is painting the sky in the most fascinating colours. Or you relax with your homemade meal and a glass of local wine in the cosy cottage you’ve booked.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit the Camargue is during spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). These seasons offer mild temperatures and fewer tourists, allowing you to fully enjoy the region’s natural beauty and wildlife. Spring is ideal for birdwatching, as many species are migrating, while autumn offers stunning landscapes and comfortable weather for outdoor activities. Summer can be hot and crowded, and winter, though peaceful, may be too chilly for some outdoor experiences.
The Mistral is a strong, cold, north-westerly wind that blows through the Camargue region primarily during the winter and spring months. It typically occurs from November to April, with its peak intensity often felt in February and March. The Mistral can last for several days and has a significant impact on the region’s weather, bringing clear skies but also cooler temperatures. While it can be a challenging during visits, it also shapes the unique landscape and ecology of the Camargue.
Accommodation
We stayed at Mas du Notaire, a charming and rustic cottage in the heart of the “Little Camargue.” The location is part of a wine estate. We opted for an apartment with a private bathroom and kitchen, which cost us 247 EUR for 3 nights. Included in the stay was a welcome package with a free bottle of wine of your choice (white, rosé, or red) and a complimentary wine tasting.
The property is situated in a small village with walking paths around to explore the surroundings. The location is convenient for exploring the Camargue region by car.
Things to See
Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau
We chose to visit this park and its wild birds on our first day in the Camargue to increase our chances of seeing the famous flamingos. (Later, we realized that you can also spot them easily in the wild, but never as many and as close as in the park.) The area consists of wetlands, ponds, and marshes, as well as walking paths. There is a shorter path of 2.6 km (also accessible for people with reduced mobility) and a longer one of 4.3 km. Although you can already see many birds right behind the entrance, the longer hike allows you to escape the crowds and explore the park at your own pace.
When we visited the parc in May, we could observe many flamingos, as well as various other species of birds that could be found in the reed beds, trees, and on the water. You can walk around or sit at the many benches provided. We particularly liked the numerous observation stations that let you view the birds up close and watch them for as long as you want.
We spent a few relaxing hours in the park, mostly photographing the various birds or just observing them. For bird and photography lovers, this place is paradise! However, if 8 EUR is feeling like a lot of money, you can skip the park without regret. With enough time and patience, you can see flamingos in many places in the Camargue, such as “Les Salines“, especially during spring and summer.
How to Get There
The park is located about 5 km north of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The best option is to go by car. When we arrived in the morning around 10 am (it was a Friday, but the day after a public holiday in France), the parking lot was already full, and cars were lined up along the street. Click here for the GPS details.
Entrance Fee
The entrance fee is 8 EUR. A cool fact is that you can stay in the park even after it is officially closed and leave whenever you want, which allows you to see the park during sunset. Once you have bought your ticket, you can also return later the same day.
Best Time to Visit
When we visited in May, we saw many flamingos and other species of birds. The mosquitoes were already quite active, so some mosquito repellent is recommended. Most of the walks are exposed to the sun with little shade, so be mindful of the heat if visiting during the summer months. As mentioned earlier, there were many visitors waiting in line when we arrived in the morning. However, we didn’t find the park to be too crowded once we moved away from the main spots.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a charming coastal town in the heart of the Camargue region. One of the most famous buildings is the iconic Church of the Saintes Maries, a beautiful fortress-like structure that dominates the town’s skyline. For 4EUR (as of May 2024) you can climb up to the rooftop terrace for panoramic views of the town and the surrounding landscape. We initially visited because of the town’s proximity to the Parc Ornithologique, but ended up really enjoying the relaxed seaside vibe of the area. While strolling around, we were surprised (and thrilled!) to find the restaurant “La Bohème” which offers multiple vegan options.
How to Get There
By car, easy to find paid parking in the streets around (as of our experience in May). Click here for the GPS details.
Vegan restaurants
There are no fully vegan restaurants at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, but fortunately some with pretty good options:
What to Do
- Visit the Church of Saintes-Maries: Climb to the roof of the church for panoramic views of the surrounding area.
- Relax on the Beach: Relax and soak up the sun on the beautiful beaches.
- Enjoy an Ice Cream: Treat yourself to a delicious ice cream from one of the local parlors.
- Stroll Through the Small Streets: Explore the charming streets and discover unique shops and artsy galleries.
Les Salines
The Salins (salt pans) is a long strip of land in between water and wetlands on both sides. You’ll start out on a walking path, with the option to access the beach through numerous trails. Wherever you choose to go, you will come across flamingos, as well as various species such as egrets and herons. If you want to see a representation of the “real” Camargue, this was definitely how we imagined it to be! The area is also very popular for riding tours on the famous Camargue horses.
When we arrived, it was already early evening, and the sun was slowly setting. The sky gradually changed its blue colour to a more orange tone, as flamingos were flying over our heads. It was both a fascinating and very peaceful walk, and one of our favourite areas that we visited in the Camargue.
How to get there
By car, several free parking spots before the walk starts. Click here for the GPS details. Please note that the GPS coordinates indicate the walking way, the parking is located before. At the intersection of the two streets (arrow), you can find several parking spots. By foot, you can follow the road in the direction of the cross.
Best time to visit
When we visited in May, we could see many flamingos and other species of birds. The mosquitoes were already active as well, so some mosquito repellent is recommended. Most of the walks are exposed to the sun with only little shade, so be aware of the heat when visiting during summer months. We visited during the early evening and really liked the peaceful atmosphere. Depending on the day and weather, you should be able to experience stunning sunsets.
Centre de découverte du Scamandre
This is the perfect place for bird and photography lovers! You can explore several predefined paths that go around the lakes. The multiple bird observatories offer great views, allowing you to get close to the birds and observe them in their natural habitat. During our visit, we were fortunate to see various birds, fish, and even a beaver.
Entrance fee
Free entrance.
How to get there
By car, free parking space. Click here for the GPS details.
Le Phare de l’Espiguette + Plage de l’Espiguette
The lighthouse and beach of l’Espiguette are part of a protected zone, ensuring the preservation of their natural beauty. The beach features a stunning 10 km coastline free of any construction, with white dunes that can reach up to 12 meters high. Wooden paths lead through and over the dunes, providing access to the lighthouse and allowing visitors to experience the pristine landscape up close.
How to get there
The beach is located about 7km east of Grau-du-roi. It can be reached by car (parking fee), by bike or on foot. Click here for the GPS details.
Parking
7EUR; free from october – march. The price might seem high, but the parking costs contribute to the maintenance and preservation of the dune massif.
Grau-du-Roi
After visiting the beach of l’Espiguette, we spent the evening in Grau-du-Roi. This coastal town features a busy, but charming harbor and canal, and an extensive beachside. The area is lined with numerous hotels and resort-style apartments, along with a wide variety of restaurants, bars, and shops. While we found the city to be a bit too touristy for our taste, it can be enjoyable if you don’t mind the crowds and typical tourist attractions.
You can relax on the long, sandy beach and witness a stunning sunset. During our visit, we picked up a vegan calzone from Pizzeria Mona and enjoyed it at the beach while watching the sun set below the horizon.
Vegan restaurants
There are no fully vegan restaurants in Grau-du-Roi, but you can find plant-based options here:
- Vegan calzone at Pizzeria Mona
- Beyond Meat Burger at Gel Arte Snack Glacier
- Vegan pizza and sandwich at Go snack
How to get there
By car, free parking in the streets around the beach. Click here for the GPS details.
Arles
Arles is often referred to as the getaway to the Camargue. During our visit, we were surprised by the interesting blend of ancient and modern buildings, from the iconic Roman amphitheatre to the vibrant art galleries and cafes (that even inspired Vincent van Gogh!). We only stayed for half a day, but you can easily spend more time here, especially if you are interested in history.
Vegan restaurants
Compared to the other towns and cities we visited in Camargue, Arles felt pretty easy to navigate as a vegan. It even offers one full vegan restaurant, some vegetarian ones and many more with plant-based options.
- Le VG D’Arles – La Cantine Végétale (100% vegan!)
- Au Bonheur d’Emilie (vegetarian)
- Superfood (vegetarian)
- Chardon (has one daily vegan option)
- Dune (Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurant with vegan options)
- Kalu Coco (sandwich shop with vegan sandwich options)
How to Get There
By car, easy to find paid parking in the streets around (as of our experience in May). Click here for the GPS details.
What to do
- Arles Amphitheater (Les Arènes): A well-preserved Roman amphitheater that still hosts events today.
- Roman Theater: An ancient theater offering a glimpse into the city’s Roman past.
- Church of St. Trophime: Known for its beautiful Romanesque architecture and cloister.
- Alyscamps: An ancient Roman necropolis.
- Van Gogh Trail: Explore locations that inspired Vincent van Gogh’s paintings.
- Réattu Museum: Features fine arts and photography.
South of France Video
Vegan in Camargue
Vegan restaurants
In Camargue, the local cuisine is shaped by its distinctive position between the Mediterranean Sea and the Rhône River delta, traditionally featuring seafood and meat. However, the rise of veganism in France is gradually influencing local menus. Especially in tourist areas, plant-based options are slowly increasing. We encountered some nice surprises during our trip: in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, La Bohème prominently advertised vegan options on its menu, while Pizzeria Mona in Grau-du-Roi offered a vegan calzone. Arles featured multiple places with vegan options and even one fully plant-based restaurant (Le VG D’Arles – La Cantine Végétale).
Local products
As it seems, a vegan lifestyle in Camargue is slowly becoming more accessible. For more autonomy and convenience, especially in smaller villages, we would however still recommend to book an accommodation with a kitchen. This allows you to enjoy cooking with local products, for example fresh fruit and vegetables from nearby markets. While at the market or local supermarket, look for fleur de sel, a high-quality, mineral-rich sea salt produced in Camargue’s salt marshes. And did you know that the region also produces its own rice? Thanks to its extensive marshlands and ideal conditions in the Rhône River delta, Camargue is known for cultivating several varieties of rice, including white, black, and the iconic red rice, which has a nutty flavor and firm texture.
Local wine production
Camargue is renowned for its wine production, especially its rosés made from local grape varieties. For instance, Domaine Attilon in Arles offers certified vegan wine. While many wineries in the area produce organic wines, the specific fining agents used are often not explicitly disclosed. Common non-vegan fining agents include egg whites, casein (a milk protein), and chitosan (derived from shellfish). Therefore, we recommend reaching out to the vineyard directly for specific information about their wine production methods.
Camargue and bulls
In Camargue, bulls play a significant role in cultural events, particularly in the Course Camarguaise. Often, it is promoted as a more animal-friendly alternative to traditional bullfighting because it does not result in the bull’s death. However, from an ethical standpoint, this practice still raises many concerns. Bulls in the Course Camarguaise are repeatedly exposed to high-stress environments for human entertainment, often experiencing fear and disorientation due to the large crowds, loud noise, and constant pursuit by participants trying to grab decorations attached to their horns. In this sense, although the Course Camarguaise avoids the killing that is associated with Spanish-style bullfighting, it can still be argued that it places animals in unnatural situations, as well as a huge amount of stress and fear for the sake of spectacle. The “traditional” form of bullfighting (corrida), which involves killing the bull, is also unfortunately still allowed in specific areas of the south, such as Béziers, Arles, Bayonne, and several other towns.
Camargue Horses
The Camargue horses are one of the region’s most iconic symbols. Often described as “semi-wild” these horses have played a crucial role in herding cattle, and now they frequently serve in guiding tourists through the area. However, the involvement of tourism and profit can make the relationship between humans and animals more complicated. Tour operators are naturally dependent on consistent income and need their horses to perform reliably.
Despite the romanticized image of “wild horses” and the high demand for “authentic” experiences, the reality is often less idyllic. During our trip, we often saw horses tied up, waiting between tours for the next wave of visitors. On the beaches and wetlands, we often got passed by large groups – often twenty or more horses with riders. Many riders were clearly inexperienced, which can create additional stress for the animals.
In conclusion, our take on the story is this: if you’d like to experience the Camargue’s horses and bulls without directly involving them in tourism activities, there are alternatives that prioritize the animals’ well-being. Encountering them in their natural habitats, whether by walking, cycling, or driving through the wetlands, can be a rewarding way to appreciate them in their natural habitat. Alternatively, you can also book a guided tour that focuses on observation in a respectful and responsible way (for example this tour or this tour).
Riders at the Salines. Along the beach, we sometimes encountered groups of 20 or more horses.
Birdwatching
Camargue’s wetlands and salt flats are biodiversity hotspots, playing a crucial role in the conservation of various species. The region is home to over 400 bird species native to France, including the iconic pink flamingos, which are the only breeding colony in the country. You can for example check out our recommendations mentioned earlier (such as Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau), do your own explorations or join a guided tour.
Conclusion
The Camargue may not be the easiest region as a vegan, but it undeniably cast its spell on us: from the raw, rustic nature to the many animal encounters, the vast wetlands and magical sunsets. During our trip, we could totally picture ourselves returning after retirement and spending our days photographing birds. But trust us, you don’t need to wait until retirement to enjoy the Camargue 😉 It truly offers something for everyone. we suggest booking a cozy stay with a kitchen, stocking up on local products, and creating your own delicious meals – maybe paired with occasional visits to one of the vegan-friendly restaurants we mentioned.
If you have been to the Camargue, let us know about your experience in the comments. And maybe you discovered any hidden vegan gems? We’d love to add them to the list!
Further Reading
Blog articles
Useful Resources
- Parc naturel régional de Camargue (only in French)