We spent a few days cruising along the stunning coastline in Southern France, exploring the Calanques Coast and the vegan food scene. Join us as we hike along dramatic cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, wander through charming villages, and share an inspiring encounter with an almost-vegan chef in Marseille.
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What is the Calanques Coast?
Location
The Calanques Coast is a stunning stretch of coastline in Southern France, located between the cities of Marseille and Cassis. Above all, it’s famous for its dramatic limestone cliffs, turquoise waters, and the unique rock formations known as calanques (meaning “cove” or “inlet”).
The area is a part of the Calanques National Park, the first European national park that covers land, sea, and urban areas. The park is popular with for hiking, rock climbing, as well as swimming or snorkelling.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit the Calanques Coast is generally spring (April to June) or early autumn (September to October). During these seasons, you’ll find mild temperatures, fewer crowds, and beautiful weather for hiking and exploring. Here’s a breakdown of what each season offers:
- Spring (April to June): We visited in May, which was ideal for us. The weather is generally sunny, but not too hot, and wildflowers are in bloom, adding colour to the rocky landscapes. Trails are less crowded than in summer.
- Summer (July and August): The Calanques can get very hot, with temperatures often reaching 30°C (86°F) or more. This is peak tourist season, so trails and beaches can be crowded, and some hiking routes may close due to fire risk. Early morning or late evening hikes are best if visiting in summer.
- Early Autumn (September to October): Another great time to visit, with the Mediterranean waters still warm for swimming from the summer heat. The crowds thin out after the high summer season.
- Winter (November to March): Winters are mild, with temperatures around 10-15°C (50-59°F), making it possible to hike comfortably. However, prepare for muddy roads and occasional rain. Winter also offers a quieter experience without many tourists.
Where to stay
The Calanques Coast offers various options for accommodations, from charming village stays to bustling city hotels. Here are some top locations to consider:
| Location | Best For | Accommodation Options | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marseille | Access to Calanques National Park and vibrant city life | Hotels, guesthouses, and boutique hotels | Staying in Marseille gives you proximity to the western Calanques, along with access to vegan restaurants, cultural attractions, and transport links. |
| Cassis | A cozy, scenic stay near popular Calanques like Port-Miou, Port-Pin, and En-Vau | Small hotels, guesthouses, and apartments | Cassis is known for its picturesque port, stunning beaches, and being a gateway to many hiking trails in the Calanques. |
| La Ciotat | Quieter, coastal vibe with local charm | Vacation rentals, B&Bs, and smaller hotels | La Ciotat offers beautiful coastal views and is close to the eastern Calanques, like Figuerolles and Mugel. It’s a perfect choice if you want a peaceful retreat with less tourism. |
| Aubagne | More budget-friendly options and a local atmosphere | Guesthouses, smaller hotels, and B&Bs | Aubagne is further inland, but it offers easy access to both Marseille and Cassis via car or public transport. It’s ideal if you’re looking for a quieter base that’s still close enough to the coast. |
| Bandol | Coastal beauty and wine enthusiasts | Hotels, resorts, and vacation rentals | Bandol is famous for its beautiful beaches, vineyards, and relaxed atmosphere. It offers a combination of natural beauty and cultural experiences, making it a great base for exploring the Calanques and surrounding areas. |
Personally, we chose Bandol as our base and stayed in an Airbnb. You can also find all kinds of accommodation through booking.com:
How to get around
We arrived on the Calanques Coast by car, but quickly discovered that the towns and cities in the region are super well connected by train. As a result, we ended up using the train more often than the car. For larger cities like Marseille, this turned out to be a much more hassle-free option. In fact, all the locations mentioned above have a train station, making it easy to explore the area without needing to rely on a car. It’s important to note however that the train doesn’t go directly into the Calanques National Park. However, trains connect nearby towns and cities, which makes it easy to reach the gateways to the Calanques. From there, you can continue your journey on foot, by bus, or sometimes even by boat.
Locations
Marseille
Marseille is the second-largest city in France, and one of the oldest in Europe. It is the largest city on the Mediterranean coast and the capital of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. Must visits include the vibrant Vieux Port (harbour), the iconic Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde and the charming old quarter “Le Panier“, with its narrow streets, colourful buildings and artisanal shops. Marseille is also the gateway to the stunning Calanques National Park.
From the Vieux Port (right picture), it is only a short, 15-minutes walk to the historic quarter of Le Panier (pictures below). This charming region is the oldest area of Marseille and makes you feel like walking through an open air museum: vibrant colours, captivating street art, and a rich cultural atmosphere are everywhere!
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde is undoubtedly the most iconic symbol of Marseille. Perched on a hill, it offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean Sea. To get there, you have several options:
- Walk: If you feel like getting your steps in, a hike to the top allows you to enjoy the surroundings on your ascend.
- Public Bus: You can take the bus number 60, which conveniently departs from the Old Port and drops you close to the basilica.
- Tourist Train: For a more leisurely and scenic route, hop on the little tourist train. Tickets cost around €10, and the ride offers commentary along the way. You can check out the itinerary here.
Vegan restaurants
We were super happy to discover that Marseille has a pretty interesting and varied vegan food scene. Here are our faves:
- Oh Faon: Fully vegan bakery and patisserie serving delicious fine desserts (tarts and cakes), as well as baked items like chocolate buns and cinnamon rolls. We had one insanely delicious cupcake with rosemary and one with vanilla and pecan nuts, as well as some cookies for the road. They have a second location (Oh Faon – La Biscuiterie), that is more of a biscuit shop. This place is smaller and has no seating. Both locations are just a few minutes away from each other, so you can (and should!) visit the two of them 😉
- La Baie du Dragon: This Vietnamese restaurant serves meat but offers an entire menu dedicated to vegan options. It includes starters like nems, samoussas, and banh baos, mains featuring different rice and tofu dishes, as well as noodles, and desserts like nems with chocolate. If you have a hard time choosing, ask the owner — he will even create a special dish based on your preferences! The food was amazing, but what truly stood out to us was the super friendly owner and his genuine interest for veganism. He quickly understood that we were vegan, and we had a lovely chat about the lifestyle. He seemed genuinely convinced by veganism but explained that he had to offer meat on the menu for budget reasons. During our stay, we overheard him multiple times promoting the vegan part of the menu to his guests. We’d really encourage everyone to visit and show support for the vegan options.
- Copper Branch: Vegan restaurant franchise that offers vegan comfort food.
- HAILO: Small, fully vegan restaurant offering street food including burgers, poke bowls, and desserts.
- De Bon’heur: Vegan café offering breakfast, brunch and lunch. The place includes a concept store with vegan food products, clothing and cosmetics.
- Mariposas: Fully vegan restaurant serving culinary traditions from around the world with a regularly changing menu.
- For more options, check out HappyCow.
Cassis
Cassis is a lovely seaside town, that is famous for its colourful port and its proximity to the Calanques National Park. The narrow streets are lined with charming boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. The town’s main square, Place Baragnon, hosts festivals throughout the year, celebrating everything from wine to Provençal crafts. You can also walk all the way up the Château de Cassis, a medieval fortress perched above the town, which provides a beautiful view of the area.
With the stunning Calanques right at its feet, Cassis offers an endless playground with plenty of opportunities: take a hike along the rocky cliffs and enjoy stunning views (we did this hike of 8km), relax on the pebble beaches along the way, or take a scenic boat ride or a kayak tour to explore the coastline.
Vegan restaurants
During our visit in May 2024, no vegan restaurants existed in Cassis (yet). However, there are some vegan options:
- Le Calendal: Offers seasonal and local vegan options. The staff has a clear understanding of veganism.
- Cassis et Romarin: Has normally vegan options on the menu and can prepare vegan dished upon request.
- Chez Totoch: Has a vegan quinoa salad on the menu.
Bandol
Bandol is a charming coastal town on the French Riviera featuring a quirky harbour, beautiful beaches and some relaxed hiking trails. You can for example follow this trail for some beautiful coastal views.
In addition, Bandol is known for its high-quality wines, especially its rosé and reds. This rosé from Château de Pibarnon has for example been listed as vegan.
Vegan restaurants
During our visit in May 2024, no fully vegan restaurant existed in Bandol (yet). However, there are some vegan options:
- L’ami: Offers vegan starters, mains and desserts.
- La Chipote: Has at least one vegetarian menu on the menu, which can be made vegan.
The vegan scene in Bandol is still in its early stages and options are still somewhat limited. That’s why we planned ahead and took this beauty all the way from Oh Faon to the beach of Bandol 😉
The Calanques
Did you know that the Calanques date back to more than 100 million years ago? During the cretaceous period, layers of marine limestone began forming through the accumulation of coral, shells, and marine sediment. In summary: over millions of years, tectonic forces created the mountains, rivers carved deep valleys and even today, ongoing natural processes like wind, rain, and wave erosion continue to shape the cliffs and inlets. Here are some of the best known calanques:
Calanque de Sormiou
- Description: One of the largest and most accessible calanques from Marseille, featuring a sandy beach ideal for swimming and snorkeling.
- Highlights: The dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear water make it a great spot for photography.
- Hiking trails: Calanque de Sormiou via les Baumettes (3.5 km loop)
Calanque de Morgiou
- Description: A picturesque calanque nestled between high cliffs, known for its tranquil setting and charming harbor.
- Highlights: Nearby is the Cosquer Cave, an underwater prehistoric cave (entry is restricted, but replicas are displayed at Marseille museums.) You can also visit a replica of the Cosquer Cave here.
- Hiking trails: Calanque de Morgiou (8.4 km loop)
Calanque d’En-Vau
- Description: One of the most spectacular and secluded calanques, surrounded by towering cliffs. Its turquoise waters are a favorite among adventurers.
- Highlights: The view from the cliffs above is breathtaking.
- Hiking trails: Calanque d’En-Vau (6.6 km out-and-back)
Calanque de Port-Miou
- Description: The closest calanque to Cassis, it is more of a marina with moored boats than a swimming spot, but still beautiful.
- Highlights: Its location at the edge of Cassis makes it easily accessible even for casual visitors.
- Hiking trails: Calanque de Port-Miou – Falaises d’En-Vau (13.7 km loop)
Calanque de Port-Pin
- Hiking trails: Port-Miou Cove – Port-Pin Cove – En-Vau Cove (8.2 km loop)
- Description: Known for its pine trees, shallow waters, and family-friendly atmosphere, it’s an easy hike from Cassis.
- Highlights: Perfect for a relaxing day trip with less effort required to reach it compared to other calanques.
Conclusion
The Calanques Coast is a true gem of Southern France. The region combines culture and city life with Marseille, small charming coastal towns to give you that “French Riviera” feeling and stunning, diverse hikes between the mountains and sea.