Discover the Artistic Heart of Paris
One of my favorite things to do in Paris has always been to walk up to the Sacré-Cœur and follow the streets until I arrive at the little artists’ square. Since i was a child, this place here has fascinated me and I could spend hours just observing the artists and the many tourists that stroll through, soaking in the atmosphere and wishing I was one of these people that seemed to perform magic so effortlessly with their pens and brushes.
This time was no different. It was my first time visiting Paris in winter, the temperatures were icy and the square was less busy. But the magic was still there.
Did you know that there’s a 10 year waiting list for new artists to get a space here?
Let’s have a look at the fascinating past and present of Montmarte:
The bohemian neighborhood
Montmartre is a fun mix of history, art, and bohemian charm. Its story is like a French fairy tale with a sprinkle of rebellion: back in the day, it was the place for outcasts, where artists would gather in smoky cafés, paint masterpieces, and debate life over a glass of wine or two. Today, the charming cobblestone streets attract visitors from near and far, making it one of the top tourist attractions of Paris. This also means: large crowds, mass souvenir shops and overpriced food and drinks. Personally, I can still taste the magic and nostalgia amidst all this hustle, but it certainly helps to come outside of the high season or early in the morning.
On this cold January day in Paris, I was approaching the area of Montmarte by foot. Even before reaching the quirky neighborhood, you can see early enough if you’re on the right track: the basilica of Sacré Coeur is located in one of the highest point of Paris and is towering above the other buildings by far.
But before attacking the way up, I decided to do a lunch stop at Urban Greener, a cosy little vegan restaurant that’s conveniently located just a few streets away. I was lucky and got the last table that was left without a reservation. On that day, they served a brunch formula and the café was decorated in Harry-Potter-style from a previous event. Life could be worse! The brunch turned out to be a tasty mix of a soup and a bowl full of flavors topped with fresh micro greens, as well as scones with delicious whipped cream and a banana and apple oatmeal. You can read more about it here.
After a more than satisfying meal, it was time to take the ascent to the forecourt of Sacré Cœur. To go up, you can either choose to walk up the stairs or take the funicular (same cost as a single-way metro ticket) – whatever your choice, once on top, you will be rewarded with a stunning view over the Parisian roofs! If you’re like me, with the panorama of Paris on one side, and the more than impressive building of Sacré Coeur on your other side, you will probably have trouble deciding where to turn first. Take your time to enjoy it and see if you can identify the one or other sightseeing place among the sea of buildings that lie in front of you.
One thing to expect: it will be crowded. Montmartre is one of the top touristic spots in Paris, so expect large crowds of people and lots of street vendors. For some reason however, the busyness of the place never bothered me. One thing I love to do is just sit with my camera and observe people. Especially the look of awe in the faces of those that just arrived on the platform and encounter the view of the skyline for the first time.
And then there are those, who, despite the view, mostly have eyes for each other… 😉
After you’ve spend your fair share of time strolling around the esplanade (and maybe even having a look inside of the basilica: it’s free!), it’s time to visit the artists of Montmartre that reside just a few minutes away. Here’s an option on how to get there:
- Descend Rue du Chevalier de la Barre: Head southeast down Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, a charming street lined with (touristic) shops and cafés.
- Turn Right onto Rue Norvins: At the bottom of Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, turn right onto Rue Norvins. This street features various shops and galleries.
- Continue onto Place du Tertre: Follow Rue Norvins until you reach Place du Tertre. This lively square is a hub for artists, with many setting up easels to showcase their work. Take your time to explore the artwork and soak in the atmosphere. Maybe you even recognize the one or other face from the pictures above 😉
- Optional Detour to Dali Paris: If you’re a fan of Salvador Dalí, consider making a slight detour to Dali Paris, a museum dedicated to the surrealist artist. It’s located at 11, Rue Poulbot, just a short walk from Place du Tertre.
Do you have a favorite spot in Paris? Tell us in the comments below.