Southern Norway by van

Let’s go back in time a bit and find out about how Daniel and Lynn like to plan their trips.

It was the beginning of 2022 and we were busy brainstorming travel ideas for the year to come. One longer trip of 2 weeks was planned for May, taking advantage of the many public holidays we both had during this month. The destination was still uncertain. We didn’t lack ideas – Costa Rica, Turkey, Italy, Croatia or Ireland were just some of the countries that came up during that time. Simultaneously, like many people during and after the time of Covid, we were keen to give van life a try – the initial idea was to take some weekend trips with a rented van during the spring and summer months, see if we like it, and then maybe do a longer trip the following year. Sounds perfectly reasonable, right?

– Until the day I came across an article about Norway. I don’t remember the exact phrasing of the message I sent to Daniel, but it was along the lines of “Let’s go to Norway in May with a van?” and the reply came promptly “Okay!”.

The next days and weeks were spent watching photos and videos of Norway with heart-eyes, reading about life in a van and planning our itinerary.

Renting the van

We rented our van at Roadsurfer, a german startup with multiple stations in multiple European countries and even North America. They have different types of campervans in various sizes and prices depending on the season. We opted for the “Mercedes Marco Polo” for about 75EUR/night. It came with 4 sleeping spaces (two in the van, two on the pop up roof), a kitchen and an outdoor shower.

Would we recommend it? Definitely! Our experience was over all very positive – the pick up of the vehicle was quick and uncomplicated and the equipment included was useful and complete, especially for people like us who don’t already have camping material at home. The van came with a camping table, camping chairs and a kitchen box with all the necessary utensils. They also give you the option to rent a variety of extra equipment if needed. The van comes with a 42L cooler and more than enough space in the shelves.

For 2 people, the size of Mercedes Marco Polo was ideal; for a bigger group, it probably depends of the destination. In warmer countries, where you spend less time in the van, it would most likely be sufficient. In Norway, where temperatures didn’t climb over 10 degrees during out stay, we liked to eat and relax inside the van. Plus, it was often cold and windy, and as the pop up roof was less isolated, we preferred to sleep on the fold out seating surface.

Roadsurfer also provides a 24/7 mobility service in case of accidents or problems on the road. As we fortunately didn’t encounter any incident during our travel, we didn’t have to put this service to test.

Itinerary

The roadtrip adventure began in Trier/Germany, where we picked up the van. From there, we drove towards Hamburg, where we spent out first night, before crossing through Denmark and Sweden. On the 3rd day, we finally arrived in Norway!

This was our itinerary:

GermanyPick up van in Trier, sleepover around Hamburg
Denmark + SwedenCrossing Danemark, sleepover around Goteborg
NorwayPreikestolen
NorwayTrolltunga
NorwayKrossen
NorwayBriksdalsbreen Glacier
NorwayRampestreken
NorwayDovrefjell
NorwayOslo
SwedenMalmö
Denmark Copenhagen
GermanyLünebuger Heide
LuxembourgSleepover in Luxembourg
GermanyGive back the van

In the first place, we had planned to make the trip in the other direction, starting with Dovrefjell and Rampestreken, and then making our way to the south. However, as the weather forecast predicted rain for the coming days for these regions, we headed to Lysefjorden first, where we did the hike to Preikestolen in perfect sunshine! The huge advantage of flexible van life.

Van life

For both of us, it was our first trip in a van, but we fell completely in love! We couldn’t have thought of a better way to experience Norway than to camp with views on the magnificent fjords and feel fully immersed in nature. The “allemansrett”, meaning “everyman’s right” or “freedom to roam”, states that everyone should be able to enjoy nature and allows to wild camp anywhere where the land is not owned, cultivated or where there is a prohibition sign.

Here are some key points about allemannsrett:

  • Access to Nature: Allemannsrett grants individuals the right to walk, hike, and enjoy outdoor activities in nature, even on private land.
  • No Camping Restrictions: Allemannsrett typically allows for short-term camping in the countryside, as long as it is not too close to homes and is done with minimal impact (at least 150 m from houses and no longer than 48hours)
  • Responsible Use: While allemannsrett allows access, it comes with the responsibility to treat nature and private property with care. People are expected to avoid causing damage, respect wildlife, and not disturb landowners.
  • Limitations: It’s important to note that allemannsrett does not give unrestricted access to all areas. Certain cultivated fields, yards, and specific protected areas may have restrictions.

To find the best free parking spots, we used the app Park4night. The app shows you reviews and useful information, such as toilet and/or shower access. We mostly looked for spots with free toilets and slept in paid camping places once in a while to shower (even though our van came with an outside shower, it was simply too cold in May to use it).

Costs and saving money in Norway

From the beginning, we were aware that Norway wouldn’t be the cheapest country and that’s why we were mindful about being smart with our spending. Here are some thoughts:

  • Arrival: If you choose to travel to Norway by car, there are several options.
    1) Bridge Option: The most well-known route is from Denmark to Norway via the Øresund Bridge. This bridge connects Copenhagen in Denmark to Malmö in Sweden. From there, you can drive through Sweden and enter Norway.
    2) Ferry Option: Alternatively, you can take ferries from Denmark to Norway. There are ferry routes connecting Danish cities like Hirtshals to Norwegian cities such as Kristiansand, Stavanger, and Bergen.

    For us, the decision was based on a calculation between costs, time and practicality.
ItineraryTimeDistanceTollsFerryFuel costsTotal
Option bridge16.4h1538km60€ 0€   209.17€   269.17€ 
best option
Option 1 ferry:
Hirtshalls – Kristiansand
15h1260km0€180€   171.36€   351.36€ 
Option 2 ferry:
Hirtshalls – Kristiansand – Oslo
19h1582km8.83€ 180€   215.15€   403.98€ 

The option to take the bridge was at this time the once that made most sense for us. Another big factor was that we wanted to stay flexible with time and not conform to ferry departure times and having to book the ticket in advance. On the other hand, a ferry ride can be a great way to get some rest after a long drive and probably enjoy a very scenic landscape.

  • Eating out vs. cooking: Another big advantage of van life is that it comes with a kitchen! During our whole trip, we only ate out once, and this wasn’t even in Norway, but in a falafel place in Malmö. The rest of the time, we always cooked our own meals and went to local supermarkets when necessary.
  • Accommodation: Thanks to the Allemannsrett in Norway, we could park and sleep in the van for free during most of the time. Some other days, we went to campings and paid everything between 100 NOK to 300 NOK per night. If you prefer to stay hotels or guesthouses, booking in advance can help to get better rates.
  • Activities: While in Norway, you don’t have to pay a cent for activities – the best ones, as hiking trails, parks and scenic viewpoints, are all for free! In cities, it is possible to find free guided tours or walking tours, although it is still recommended to give a tip as a “thank you”.

Visual impressions

Expand the images by clicking on them for a larger view.

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