Ultimate 14-day Morocco Itinerary: Roadtripping from Rabat to Marrakesh

In May 2023, we set off on a 14-day road trip across the breathtaking landscapes of Morocco. On the world map, the North African country stands out with its unique blend of cultural influences and traditions, as well as its diverse landscapes. During our journey, we discovered bustling cities, small towns, the desert and mountains. In this blog post, we share our 14-day Morocco itinerary, packed with personal stories, insider tips, and recommendations for vegan-friendly accommodations and meals to help you plan your own unforgettable trip.

What to know about Morocco

In the late afternoon, we touched down at the airport of Salé/Rabat, greeted by a pleasant post-rain atmosphere as we left the plane. The warmth of the air on our face, the unfamiliar smell and the wideness of the landscape around us, with shadows hinting at the mountain ranges in the background – we had finally arrived in Morocco! We were looking forward to a 14-day trip that would lead us from cities to the desert, through valleys and authentic small villages, over the Atlas mountains and finally to Marrakesh.

The country of Morocco

Morocco is a vibrant country in North Africa, bordered by both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Known for its rich history, it seamlessly blends Arab, Berber, and European influences. The country offers incredibly diverse landscapes, ranging from bustling cities like Marrakesh and Casablanca to the serene Sahara Desert and the rugged Atlas Mountains, offering something unique for every type of traveller.

The population of Morocco

Languages spoken in Morocco

The official languages of Morocco are Arabic and Tamazight (Berber), both widely spoken across the country. French is also commonly used in business, government, and education, while English is becoming more popular in tourist areas. Learning a few Arabic phrases, such as “shukran” (thank you), is always appreciated by locals.

Currency in Morocco

The currency of Morocco is the Moroccan Dirham (DM). ATMs are widely available in cities and towns, but cash is preferred in smaller shops and markets. We recommend to carry enough cash for expenses such as restaurants or hotels in remote locations, as card payments are not always accepted.

Best time to visit Morocco

The best time to visit Morocco is during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summers can be extremely hot, especially in the desert, while winters are cooler, with snow in the Atlas Mountains. These shoulder seasons are ideal for exploring Morocco’s cities, the desert and mountains.

Travelling in Morocco

Getting around in Morocco

The best way to get around Morocco depends on your itinerary, preferences, and the areas you plan to visit. Here are the most common and recommended ways to travel within the country:

Exploring Morocco by car

Renting a car is one of the most flexible ways to explore Morocco, especially if you want to visit rural areas, the Atlas Mountains, or remote towns. Roads are generally in good condition, and you can easily navigate between major cities, towns, and popular attractions. Just be aware that driving in cities like Marrakesh and Casablanca can be chaotic, so a bit of caution is needed.

Our experience of driving in Morocco

Of course the experience of driving in Morocco is subjective and will vary greatly depending on your previous road experiences and the places where you are used to drive normally. However, we want to share a few points that can be helpful if you are contemplating on whether to rent a car in Morocco or not.

Overall, our driving experience turned out to be easier and far more uncomplicated than we had expected and we wouldn’t hesitate to make this choice again. For a carefree journey, here are some tips for your road adventure:

• Traffic : Major cities like Casablanca, Marrakech or Rabat can experience heavy traffic jams, especially during peak hours.
• Road Conditions: While major highways are mostly well-maintained, rural roads and those in smaller towns may be narrower and in poorer condition, for example with potholes or uneven surfaces.
• Navigation: GPS navigation works perfectly fine for most of the time, but a good map may be helpful in more rural areas where signage can be limited.
• Pedestrians and Animals: Be prepared for pedestrians, cyclists, and animals sharing the road with you, particularly in rural areas. Stay alert and drive slowly.
• Police Checkpoints: It’s common to encounter police checkpoints, especially on major highways. Our experience with them was always uncomplicated, quick and friendly. Just be sure to have your identification and vehicle documents readily accessible.

Car Rental

We booked our car through Rentalcars.com and were super happy with the Dacia Duster we received. It was ideal for navigating various road conditions, from sandy desert paths to mountain roads with potholes. If you plan to go more off-road, we recommend opting for a 4×4 vehicle with higher clearance.

Exploring Morocco by train

Morocco has a reliable and affordable train network, especially between major cities like Casablanca, Marrakesh, Fes, and Tangier. The trains are comfortable, air-conditioned, and a great way to enjoy scenic views. The ONCF (National Office of Railways) operates both high-speed and regular trains. Personally, we love train rides and would have probably opted for this mode of transport if we had more time for our trip.

Exploring Morocco by bus

Buses are a cost-effective option for traveling between cities and towns. Several bus companies, including CTM and Supratours, offer comfortable and well-maintained services. For more local travel or reaching smaller destinations, buses can be a practical choice.

Accommodation in Morocco

Accommodation options

Morocco offers a wide variety of accommodations to suit every budget and preference, ranging from luxurious riads to budget-friendly hostels. Here’s a breakdown of popular options:

• Hotels: Major cities like Marrakesh, Casablanca or Fes have both international chains and local hotels that offer comfort and convenience.
• Desert Camps: For an unforgettable experience, consider staying in a desert camp. These range from basic tents to luxury glamping setups under the starry skies of the Sahara. You can for example check out Sheherazades Berber Camp in Merzouga.
• Guesthouses: Known as “dars,” these cozy accommodations are perfect for meeting locals and enjoying homemade Moroccan meals.
• Hostels: Backpackers will find many affordable and social hostels, particularly in Marrakesh, Essaouira, and Chefchaouen.
• Airbnb and Vacation Rentals: These are ideal for longer stays or if you’re traveling in a group and want more privacy.

Vegan food in Morocco

14-day Morocco itinerary suggestion

Overview

Our 14-day Morocco itinerary was admittedly very packed. Since we had limited time, we decided to make the most of it and see a good variation of what the country has to offer. We hereby prioritized nature over cities. If you’re more interested in culture, you could easily extend your stay in Rabat, Meknes, or Marrakesh by adding a few extra days.

Destination	Nights spent	Distance (km)
Rabat	2 Nights	0 km
Meknes	1 Night	145 km
Merzouga	3 Night	452 km
Tinghir	1 Night	202 km
Ouarzazate	1 Night	173 km
Imlil	2 Nights	246 km
Ourika Valley	1 Night	84 km
Marrakesh	2 Night	43 km

Destinations in Morocco

Rabat

We start this section with our personal experience, some anecdotes and fun stories. If you want to get straight to the facts about Rabat, jump ahead:

• Rabat short & sweet

Our experience in Rabat

Arriving at the airport

A new country for both of us! Having successfully conquered passport control (a new stamp in the passport! Yay!), our first true adventure began at the car rental counter.

Meanwhile, the Europcar employee remained surprisingly calm, seemingly indifferent to the fact that we were about to spoil his day with overhours. Or, he was just used to deal with incapable tourists. We tried again. And again. And finally it worked! Yay! The path to our own car aka freedom was cleared.

Driving to Rabat

Once installed in our white Dacia Duster, the adventure of navigating the Moroccan streets could begin! Daniel seemed like a natural behind the wheel right from the start.

Equipped with Google Maps, we manoeuvered through the bustling streets, coming closer to our first destination of this trip: Riad Marco, nestled in the heart of Salé. “Just turn right, and we’re practically there,” I excitedly pointed out. Daniel made the right turn… only to find ourselves trapped in a narrow one-way street. Welcome to the Medina of Salé! Of course we were aware that the Medina translated to “old center,” but only now it dawned on us that “old” meant it was designed in a time before cars existed. My heart raced a bit, but Daniel remained remarkably calm as he skilfully reversed the car, carefully navigating past curious children and cats, until we reached the comfort of the main street once again. We decided to park the car and cover the remaining distance on foot. When we arrived at the Riad, it was almost 8pm and we were happy to have made it before dark.

A Riad is a traditional Moroccan house with a courtyard or garden at the center. When the owner opened the door, we stepped away from the bustling street into what seemed like a Moroccan movie scene. And in a way, the Riad inside mirrored the Medina outside: winding corridors that seemed overwhelming at first, but fascinating at the same time. Rather than rooms lined up neatly side by side, the layout was a maze of different levels, connected by a few steps here, a staircase there, and corridors that didn’t quite make sense to us yet. On our first day, it took us several attempts to find our room again 😉

Exploring Salé/Rabat

We had a conversation with the restaurant owners, a Moroccan woman and her French husband, that were eager to share their coups de coeur about the city with us. They explained how Rabat often goes unnoticed compared to Marrakech, but, according to our new friends, Rabat clearly was the place to be. Their first recommendation was to take the little rowing boats across the bay between Salé and Rabat. Apparently the prices can vary between a few Dirham and ten or more times higher, depending on your negotiating skills.

Their second recommendation was to explore the Medina of Salé – a bullet point that we would unexpectedly tick off the list no later than the next day, when we met Achmed. Achmed approached us wanting to know where we came from, and skilfully and charmingly engaged in a conversation. He then transformed our simple question of where we could buy a water bottle into an hour-long adventure of discovering the Medina. As it was Friday, most places were closed, but he kindly offered to help us find a store that was open – however, not without becoming our personal tour guide first: he lead us through labyrinth of narrow streets of the Medina, sharing its history, and revealing the best places to purchase spices or other goods. He walked as fast as he talked, and the excursion with him turned out to be a roller coaster for all our senses: the people, the colours, the textures, the smells, the sounds, … After an hour of trying to keep up with him, we found ourselves disoriented but satisfied and full of new impressions. And yes, we even ended up getting our bottle of water!

Rabat short & sweet

Accommodations in Rabat

Riad Marco: This was the first Riad we stayed in and it felt like stepping straight into a movie scene. The owner welcomed us warmly and gave us helpful tips on how to navigate the Medina and recommended places to eat. The Riad has a rooftop terrace with stunning views over the city and even a swimming pool!

What to see in Rabat

Here are some attractions to explore in Rabat. Click on the name to see the location.

• Chellah Necropolis: A historic archaeological site featuring ancient Roman and Islamic ruins. Entrance fee: 10 DH
• Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art: Museum showcasing a diverse collection of Moroccan and international modern art within a blend of contemporary and traditional architectural design. Entrance fee: 40 DH
• Royal Palace: This is the official residence of the King of Morocco. While the interior isn’t open to the public, visitors can view the impressive exterior.
• Rabat Beaches: The Rabat beaches include Plage de Rabat and Plage des Nations. Close to the city, they offer golden sand, Atlantic waves for surfing and stunning coastal sunsets.
• Street Art: Explore the vibrant street art scene in Rabat from artists all over the world.

Vegan in Rabat

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Meknes

Our experience in Meknes

We start this section with personal stories and experiences. If you want to get straight to the facts about Meknes, jump ahead:

• Meknes short & sweet

Stopover in Meknes

On the same day, we headed back to our car (and shared a laugh when, on the way, we bumped into Achmed again) and had a quick and uncomplicated 2-hour-drive to the city of Meknes. It is known for its well-preserved imperial architecture, including the monumental Bab Mansour gate and its medina is inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We spent the rest of the day exploring the city and buying some dates and nuts on the market to prepare for our big trip to the desert. Our accommodation on that day was the Riad Atika Mek. The owner was a likeable elderly man, who asked us many questions about where we came from (he even visited our home country, Luxembourg, once and told us he particularly liked the clean roofs :-P), as well as our vegan lifestyle. We then visited the rooftop of the Riad and spent the rest of the evening enjoying the view, reading and watching the buildings of the city change its colours while the sun was setting.

Meknes short & sweet

Accommodations in Meknes

Riad Atika Mek: A charming Riad in a peaceful area of Meknes, with an owner that showed genuine interest in hearing about our home country, Luxembourg, and our vegan lifestyle. He made great effort to accommodate us with a lovely vegan breakfast the next morning, including msemmen, jams, olives and lots of fruits. This Riad also features a vibrant, colourful rooftop that we absolutely loved!

What to see in Meknes

Here are some attractions to explore in Meknes. Click on the name to see the location.

• Bab Mansour Gate: A magnificent and iconic gate in Meknes, decorated with colourful mosaic tiles and detailed carvings, showcasing the beauty of Moroccan architecture. (Update January 2025: The gate is currently under renovation and covered with a plastic sheet.)
• Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail: The final resting place of Sultan Moulay Ismail, featuring stunning traditional architecture and courtyards. Free entrance.
• El Hedim Square: A bustling square in the heart of Meknes, surrounded by shops, cafes, and street performers, offering a lively Moroccan atmosphere.
• Dar Jamai Museum: A former palace turned museum showcasing Moroccan arts, crafts, and historical artifacts in a beautiful setting. Entrance fee: 30 DH.
• Volubilis (near Meknes): Ancient Roman ruins with well-preserved mosaics and stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Entrance fee: 70 DH.
• Medina of Meknes: Wander through the old medina’s narrow streets to experience authentic souks, local crafts, and delicious Moroccan street food.

Vegan in Meknes

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Merzouga

Our experience in Merzouga

We start this section with personal stories and experiences. If you want to get straight to the facts about Merzouga, jump ahead:

• Merzouga short & sweet

A long drive ahead

Finally, the day that we were most excited about was here. We were finally going to explore the desert!

But first, we still had to tackle the 450km from Meknes to Merzouga. After the first 4h on the road, we stopped at a fuel station to fuel up and take a quick lunch break: a sandwich, banana bread that we had prepared before our departure from Luxembourg, as well as some dates and nuts from the market. While we had our picnic at the side of the road, a man approached us and invited us to have dinner at his home, which was apparently just a few streets away. As we still had a 4h car drive ahead of us and absolutely wanted to reach our destination before sunset, we politely declined. This was not the first, nor the last time we got to experience the Moroccan hospitality, and every time the invitations came across as very sincere.

Arriving in the desert

Sunrises in the desert

The next morning, we woke up at 6am in order to head straight to the desert again to experience the sunrise. It took us a good 15 minutes to walk into the dunes and climb up. After we reached the top of the highest dune around, a spectacular view unfolded in front of us, as the sun was rising and covering the dunes in a playful interaction of light and shadows. For a moment, it seemed like we were alone in the world. Then, from far away, we could see a group of camels approaching, and their bodies looked tiny from far away, as they were moving soundlessly through the desert, in perfect harmony with their environment. Gradually, the desert was waking up: a second group of camels with tourists on their back appeared and the peaceful silence got interrupted by a bunch of quad drivers approaching from the distance. We sat there for a little while longer, watching the scenery in awe.

Sandstorms in the desert

Eventually, we headed back to the hotel to have breakfast. For every meal during our stay, we got spoiled by Younes and Ibrahim, who made sure we always had delicious vegan options. On that morning, they informed us that it would get really windy today and that the usual tours they offered (quad, camel ride, …) were cancelled for that reason. As we didn’t want to waste a whole day staying inside, we decided to go for a walk along they only road that was around. Indeed, the wind was blowing like crazy. We walked until we arrived at the next small village named “Taboumiat” that consisted of a few buildings and sandy streets. A group of kids crossed our path, playing with an old bike and a football, as well as some camels and a donkey. On our way back, the wind grew even stronger. At some point, we were less than 50 meter away from the Riad, as something curious happened. From one second to the other, the sandstorm turned the building almost completely invisible. Without any points of repair, it was easy to lose all sense of direction, and so we were relieved when a few seconds later, it appeared again. It was an impressive experience and we could only imagine how scary it must be to be trapped in a sandstorm like this one while crossing the desert.

Art in the desert

Merzouga short & sweet

Accommodations in Merzouga

• Kasbah du Berger: Another stay that felt straight out of a movie! The location is surreal: The Kasbah is right at the foot of the desert, with the dunes visible from our room. We could take a short walk and find ourselves right in the heart of the desert :’-) The staff was incredibly accommodating, preparing delicious vegan dinners each night – either couscous or tagine – and they helped us arrange activities in the area.

• Merzouga is the perfect destination to try out an unforgettable overnight stay at a desert camp! Options in the area include Sheherazades Berber Camp (budget), Sunrise Sahara Camp or Merzouga Spirit Luxury Camp (both luxury). The luxurious Tiziri Camp also offers vegan meals upon request.

What to see in Merzouga

Here are some attractions to explore in Merzouga. Click on the name to see the location.

• Erg Chebbi Dunes: Definitely the main reason why people come to Merzouga 😀 The majestic sand dunes of the Sahara desert are impressive and will captivate everyone that visits. A variety of activities are offered, such as quad rides or sandboarding.

• Dayet Srji Lake: A seasonal lake near Merzouga, where you can spot flamingos and camels. It typically has water during the cooler months, from autumn to early spring, when rainfall is more frequent, and often runs dry in the hotter months, especially from June to September.
• Desert Art: The gallery Chez Les Artistes was a totally unexpected but fascinating find for us. This unique spot in Merzouga, run by a Moroccan-French couple, combines an art gallery and a café. It’s the perfect place to take a break from the heat, explore their collection of art, and have a tea on their shady terrace.

Vegan in Merzouga

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Tinghir

We first share our personal experiences and stories about our stay in Tinghir. If you want to get straight to the facts about Tinghir, jump ahead:

• Tinghir short & sweet

Our experience in Tinghir

Hiking & getting lost

Observing everyday life

After dinner, we spent some time on the terrace of our Riad, located along one of Tinghir’s main roads. As night fell, it was captivating to watch the street remain lively and full of activity. A group of children played together, even after darkness had settled. A woman walked beside her donkey, likely returning home after a long day at the market or in the fields. Across from us, the men working at a shop were still busy, hauling foods and drinks late into the evening.

This morning, we had sat on this very same terrace, watching children emerging from all corners on their way to school. Some were accompanied by their mothers or older siblings, others walked together in groups, and a few made their way alone. While some children seemed cheerful and eager for the day ahead, others appeared less enthusiastic and clearly took their time getting there. How different their upbringing must be growing up in this remote town in southeastern Morocco, compared to the lives we had known as children. And yet, observing these simple, everyday moments of a new school day beginning, so much of it also felt universally familiar.

Tinghir short & sweet

Accommodations in Tinghir

Riad Sephora: A cosy Riad with super friendly staff, located right next to the entrance to the Todra Gorge. It offers a lovely view over the valley and we loved sitting on the terrace, watching the lively activity on the streets below.

What to see in Tinghir

Here are some attractions to explore in Tinghir. Click on the name to see the location.

Vegan in Tinghir

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Ouarzazate

Our experience in Ouarzazate

Here you find some stories about our personal experiences and encounters in Ouarzazate and around. If you want to get straight to the facts about Ouarzazate, click hear:

• Ouarzazate short & sweet

The carpet shop of Kasbah Amridil

On our way to Ouarzazate, we made a stop at Kasbah Amridil, an ancient fortification nestled in the oasis of Skoura. It is already an impressive sight from the outside, but you can also explore the interior for around 40 DH. We opted for a walk around the place and discovered a little carpet shop just behind the Kasbah. The owner warmly welcomed us, and we soon found ourselves in a cosy basement-like area surrounded by vibrant carpets of every size and design. Over a cup of traditional Moroccan tea, he shared fascinating insights into the craft, explaining the complex techniques and immense effort involved in creating each piece. It was an eye-opening experience and made us aware of the countless hours of work that go into an object like this. Most of the carpets however were made out of sheep or goat wool, and so we made it clear from the beginning that it wasn’t our intention to buy one and that we were mainly interested to learn about the process. True to his role as a salesman, he still tried his best to convince us 🙂 Instead, we managed to agree on a donation for the shop in order to support him and his workers, and to show gratitude for the time and knowledge he shared with us.

Visit of Aït-Ben-Haddou

We didn’t stay that long however, because we wanted to make it back before dark. Nevertheless, we still managed to shoot a few sunset photos not far away from our Riad, and even got joined by Yousseef, a local from the village, who happily volunteered to be our model.

Ouarzazate short & sweet

Accommodations in Ouarzazate

• Riad Dar Daïf: This beautiful Riad had a truly unique atmosphere. It is mostly run by local women that pay attention to every detail – from the tasteful decorations to the high-quality products in the bathroom. Reflecting on our stay, most of our memories are tied to the senses; throughout our time there, a lovely, fresh scent and a calm, gentle mood filled the entire space. The Riad is a bit off the beaten path, located outside the city center and accessible via some streets with potholes, but it’s definitely worth the journey.

What to see in Ouarzazate

Here are some attractions to explore in Ouarzazate. Click on the name to see the location.

• Kasbah Taourirt: A well-preserved historic kasbah that once served as a residence for the Glaoui family. Its architecture and decorative details make it a must-visit. Entrance fee: 20 DH. Update 2025: Parts of the Kasbah are undergoing renovation due to damage sustained during the earthquake that struck southern Morocco in September 2023.
• Aït-Ben-Haddou: A UNESCO World Heritage site and iconic ksar with its earthen clay architecture. Explore the narrow alleys and climb to the top for stunning views. Entrance fee: 10 DH
• Atlas Studios: Known as the “Hollywood of Morocco,” these studios are famous for being the filming location of numerous blockbusters, such as “Gladiator” or “Kingdom of Heaven”. Entrance fee: 50 DH
• Fint Oasis: A serene oasis surrounded by palm trees and lush greenery, perfect for escaping the desert heat and enjoying a peaceful walk.
• Tifoultoute Kasbah: A lesser-known kasbah offering picturesque views of the surrounding desert landscape. Perfect for those seeking quieter spots. Entrance fee: Around 10 DH
• Ouarzazate Solar Power Station (Noor Complex): One of the largest solar power plants in the world, a remarkable example of sustainable energy in Morocco.
• Draa Valley: A scenic drive or guided excursion through the valley, known for its vast palm groves and traditional Berber villages.

Vegan in Ouarzazate

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Imlil

Our experience in Imlil

Here you find our personal experience and thoughts about Imlil. To get straight to the facts about Imlil, click here:

• Imlil short & sweet

Exploring abandoned film sets

On the way to Imlil, we made a stop at “Gas Haven“. The location served as a film set for American (“The Hills Have Eyes”) and Moroccan movies. Against a small donation, you can walk around and have fun taking pictures.

Accommodation adventures in Imlil

Then we continued our trip onward. Since we both love hiking, Imlil, the little village in the Atlas mountains was one of the destinations we were most excited about. We had booked a rather cheap accommodation, where the reviews ranked from “fabulous” to “horrible”, some comments saying that the owner never showed up or that there was no free room for them. Some other travellers seemed to have had the time of their lives. Needless to say, we were intrigued and decided to see it with our own eyes.

Once we arrived in the mountain village, we parked along the main street, as our accommodation was only accessible on foot. After a short five-minute walk, we reached our place for the night – or so we thought. A woman opened the door and as she let us in, it quickly became evident that we didn’t share a common language. She gave us a sign to wait, while she talked on the phone with someone. After a while, she handed the phone to us. On the other end was the owner of the hotel, explaining in English that this night we would stay at the neighbour’s place, but that we could come back tomorrow and move into our room.

Arriving in Imlil

Imlil was a lovely little mountain village a single main street, lined with shops, restaurants and hotels. It was undoubtedly touristy, and we wondered if some people would consider it “too touristy”. Like so often, it is a matter of perspective, influenced by previous experiences and current expectations. Someone expecting a remote mountain escape might feel put off by the many shops or the occasional tourist bus passing by. For us, it was the perfect mix of the comfort of easily accessible food and accommodations, combined with the excitement of discovering a new place, its unique culture, and the incredible scenery of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Imlil being the base to explore Jbel Toubkal and the High Atlas Mountains, there was a energetic and positive energy in the air, fuelled by those kind of people who are eager to spend their holidays active and outdoors.

Toubkal National Park

Our plan was to explore Toubkal National Park without venturing too far up the mountain. The weather was perfect, with temperatures in the low 20s°C and a refreshing breeze. As we made our way steadily upward, we frequently crossed paths with other tourists accompanied by guides, and sometimes donkeys carrying their backpacks. Given that the path marked the starting point for climbing Jbel Toubkal, we assumed these groups were being guided for the two-day trek to the summit. In hindsight, it’s funny that we didn’t notice sooner that every single tourist had a guide… 😉

After a good 40-minute hike, we passed a little cabin. We walked on, but in this moment we heard a whistle from behind that was unmistakably meant for us. We turned back to the cabin where a group of men waited and explained to us that it was not allowed to hike in the national park without a guide. Not even if, like we had planned, it was just to go on for 1.5km more to the next café instead of all the way up to the top of Toubkal. We were given two options: hire a guide immediately for 250 DH and continue on our way, or head back to the village.

We were frustrated. Of course every place has its rules that you can either respect – or you don’t and you leave. And knowing the history of Imlil, this law was implemented after the shocking murder of two tourists that had touched the whole region. Of course it made sense that they wanted hikers to be accompanied. And of course we should have done more research about the area before setting out for a hike. Of course they had every right to stop us from walking further into the national park. But at this moment, it simply felt like a restriction on our freedom and an unnecessary big sum of money for a 1.5km walk. After pouting for a moment and weighing our options, we decided to go ahead with the guide. Since we had planned to complete the whole loop, turning back before reaching the actual turning point would have felt like a disappointing end to our time in Imlil. And it would have done a huge injustice to this place.

So we continued with a guide. We can’t say that it was a huge added value to our hike, as he mostly walked a few steps ahead, hands in his pockets, not saying much. Or maybe our bitchy behaviour from before hadn’t made it particularly attractive for him to engage in any conversation with us. When we finally reached the café, the three of us sat down and ordered tea. Slowly, the guide began to open up and shared some fascinating details about his life, such as how he had grown up in this village and had never left it. In the end, it was the human connection that made the expense feel worthwhile after all.

Leaving Imlil

After returning to the village, we tried our luck again at the first accommodation. No one was there, but someone had left our luggage in a room, along with a key. At least we’d have a bed for the night! However, still feeling slightly discouraged by the events of the day, we realized that we weren’t quite in the right mindset to fully appreciate everything Imlil had to offer us at that moment. The magic we had felt on our arrival had faded somewhat. To make matters worse, the weather forecast predicted rain for the next day, and the thought of doing another hike with a guide didn’t exactly excite us. So, we decided to spend the night but leave the following morning – one day earlier than we had originally planned.

When we woke up in the morning, there was still no one around in the accommodation. So, we decided to leave the payment for the three nights we had planned to stay, along with the key, in our room. And just like that, we checked out of this mysterious place without ever truly having checked in, unsure whether the owners even knew – or cared – that we had stayed. At the same time, we couldn’t help but find it weirdly wonderful that a place like this could exist and operate, somehow even receiving “exceptional” reviews online.

Imlil short & sweet

Accommodations in Imlil

We’ve chosen not to share the name of our initial guesthouse here. While it didn’t meet our expectations, we understand that experiences can vary, and some reviews suggest others had a truly positive stay. Instead, we’d like to highlight a few places below that we recommend:

• Afla Views: This is the guesthouse that accommodated us so kindly on our first night in Imlil. The rooms have big windows that offer stunning views on the surroundings. It also has a charming outside terrace where you can enjoy your breakfast.

• Atlas Imoula: Budget-friendly guesthouse.

• Atlas Prestige: Budget-friendly guesthouse.

Things to do in Imlil

Here are some attractions to explore in Imlil. Click on the name to see the location.

• Aremd Village: Just a short walk or from Imlil, this traditional Berber village offers a glimpse into the daily life and culture of the region.
• Hiking Trails: Imlil serves as a base for numerous hikes ranging from short village loops to multi-day treks. Trails pass through terraced fields, walnut groves, and traditional Berber villages.

Vegan in Imlil

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Ourika Valley

Here is a short introduction about how we came to choose Ourika Valley as our next destination. You can jump ahead to the facts about Ourika Valley by clicking here:

• Ourika Valley short & sweet

Our experience in Ourika Valley

To be completely honest, our choice of the Ourika Valley as a stopover was influenced more by the accommodation than the destination itself. After our rather modest experience with a not-so-clean stay in Imlil, we decided to treat ourselves to relaxing place before heading to Marrakesh. And we couldn’t have made a better choice! Our stay at Le Jardin des Délices was an exceptional experience and gave us the energy we needed to go back to city life.

Ourika Valley short & sweet

Accommodations in Ourika Valley

Things to do in Ourika Valley

Here are some attractions to explore in Ourika Valley. Click on the name to see the location.

• Ourika Valley: A picturesque valley in the Atlas Mountains, offering stunning natural beauty and a peaceful escape from Marrakech. Ideal for a day trip or a relaxing stay for a few nights.
• Setti Fatma Waterfalls: A series of seven waterfalls that you can hike to, offering incredible views and refreshing spots to cool off. A guide is recommended for the hike.
• Anima Garden: A beautifully landscaped botanical garden designed by André Heller, an Austrian artist. The garden offers a peaceful retreat surrounded by trees and plants, sculptures, and vibrant art installations. Entrance fee: 150 DH.
• Saffron Gardens (Paradis du Safran): A serene garden showcasing saffron cultivation, along with other aromatic herbs and plants. Visitors can learn about saffron harvesting and enjoy a peaceful stay of a few hours. Entrance fee: 100 DH.
• Tajine Restaurants by the River: Enjoy a traditional Moroccan meal in one of the many restaurants set along the riverside, with scenic mountain views. The restaurants are located along the banks of the Ourika River, especially near the villages of Setti Fatma and Aghbalou.
• Pottery Workshops: Explore artisanal pottery workshops in the valley, where you can see local craftspeople at work and buy unique handmade items.
• Argan Oil Cooperatives: Visit one of the many cooperatives producing argan oil, where you can learn about its production process and purchase high-quality products directly from the source.

Vegan in Ourika Valley

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Marrakesh

We first have a small section about our personal impressions of Marrakesh. To jump ahead to the facts about Marrakesh, click here:

• Marrakesh short & sweet

Our experience in Marrakesh

We only stayed in Marrakesh for one full day due to the limited time we had for our Morocco trip. Being more drawn to nature than cities, we chose to focus on the mountains and desert, hoping to return to Marrakesh another time to fully give it the attention it deserves. While you can certainly find far more complete info about Marrakesh on other blogs, we still want to share some memories that left a lasting impression on us:

• Taking in the city with all our senses: Marrakesh is a city that feels alive in every moment and there is always something going on: to see, to hear, to smell, to touch, to taste, … Walking through the medina is a truly immersive experience. While it can feel overwhelming at first, with so much happening all at once, try to stay present and open to the people and the atmosphere. Take a moment to soak in all the different colours and aromas from the stalls, have a chat with the vendors and enjoy the playful art of bargaining.
• Having a complete vegan dinner at Broc the Kashbah, sitting on their terrace and soaking in the lively hustle and bustle of Marrakesh’s streets. Update January 2025: While the restaurant was fully vegetarian during our visit, it is now reportedly serving meat as well. However, they continue to offer vegan options.

Marrakesh short & sweet

Accommodations in Marrakesh

• Dar Moughita: This is a quiet and cosy place right in the heart of the Medina. The owners were super accommodating and made us feel at home right from the start. Not only did they thoughtfully prepare a light breakfast for us at 4 am, but they also insisted on walking us to our taxi.

Some other options:

• Yacouta Riad and Spa: Cosy Riad with outside pool and terrace.
• Riad Assala: Cosy Riad.
• Villa Al Assala: A more luxurious option.
• Le petit Joyau: Cosy Riad .
• Riad Dar Haris: Holiday home, ideal for bigger groups.

Things to do in Marrakesh

Here are some attractions to explore in Marrakesh. Click on the name to see the location.

• Bahia Palace: A 19th-century palace featuring intricate mosaics, stunning architecture, and beautiful gardens, offering a glimpse into Morocco’s royal past. Entrance fee: 70 DH.
• Saadian Tombs: Resting place of the Saadian dynasty, this site showcases exquisite Islamic architecture and carvings. Entrance fee: 70 DH.
• Marrakech Medina: A maze of narrow streets filled with souks selling everything from spices to carpets, handmade crafts, and traditional Moroccan pottery.
• Le Jardin Secret: A tranquil garden in the Medina showcasing traditional Islamic design, with stunning views from the tower. Entrance fee: 80 DH (garden), 40 DH (tower).
• El Badi Palace: The ruins of a 16th-century palace, known for its large courtyard, orange groves, and panoramic views. Entrance fee: 70 DH.
• Menara Gardens: A peaceful retreat with olive groves and a large reflecting pool, set against the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. Free entrance.
• Maison de la Photographie: A charming museum featuring historical photographs of Morocco, offering a unique glimpse into the country’s past. Entrance fee: 50 DH.
• Hammams and Spas: Marrakech is famous for its hammams (traditional baths). Enjoy a relaxing treatment at spots like Hammam de la Rose or Les Bains de Marrakech. Prices vary by treatment.

Vegan in Marrakesh

We’ve dedicated an entire article about veganism in Morocco – click here to read it!

Conclusion

Morocco has been one of the most unique countries we have visited so far. The natural landscapes are incredible diverse, featuring mountains (including the tallest peak of North Africa!), beaches and deserts. The people are warm, authentic and welcoming. Although we only had 10 days to explore and merely scratched the surface of what Morocco has to offer, it left a lasting impression on us.

Morocco is for you if…

As we see it, you’ll enjoy Morocco if…

• … you’re seeking authentic places with a hint of adventure, whether it’s hiking, sandboarding in the desert, or wandering through labyrinthine medinas.
• … you’re eager to discover cultures that might be vastly different from your own.
• … you’re open to engaging with people and embracing the genuine curiosity and interest they show in you.
• … you appreciate history and architecture, with a fascination for ancient cities and centuries-old kasbahs.
• … you love vibrant and bustling markets filled with colours, aromas, and unique handmade goods.
• … you’re drawn to natural wonders, like the Sahara Desert’s endless dunes or the Atlas Mountains’ dramatic peaks.
• … you seek unique experiences, like sleeping under the stars in the desert or taking a traditional hammam.

Further Reading

Useful Resources

• Visit Morocco
• HappyCow Morocco